My journey to 4600m out of 5895m

Tanzania – Kilimanjaro

It is the highest mountain in Africa and the highest single free-standing mountain in the world

1345m is the highest place in the UK and we were about to start a hike at 1800m up to 3000m on day 1!

Day 1 of hike

1800m to 3000m 11km 7 hours

For me it started with breakfast and a briefing by the guides followed by our first health check. I must have been nervous at this point as my resting heart rate was 110, it is usually between 55 and 65 at home so probably not a great start.

Each day started and ended with a health check – heart rate, blood oxygen level as well as questions about sleep, appetite, headache and energy. Such simple questions caused panic and stress whilst trying to remain calm and keep your heart rate down.

This was also the first time we met the team we are going to be spending the week with.
Team Hippo was born

Quick introductions and all names forgotten by the time I got on the bus. 🤦‍♂️
The ride to the mountain was mixed with a lot of nervous chatter and looking at all the scenery we missed in the dark the night before on the drive in.
Noticed there were quite a few military check points on the road but they did not seem too fussed with us.
Then up we pulled up to the start of the mountain. Checking in began, bags unloaded and lunch handed out.

Every campsite had one of these informing you of what lay beyond, the higher you went the list got smaller.

Cocktail stick in our burgers with our packed lunch caused much discussion as did the monkeys trying to steal any food.

We had a late start walking. After an early start from the hotel, as a lot of waiting around at the bottom sorting bags and I think they give each group a time slot to set off rather than everyone all at once.

Once we were going it soon turned into thick rain forest. And true to its name it rained.

Poncho was very good. As it was very humid as well as wet. Although looked odd over my bag with poles in.

Loads of hairy trees and green on green everywhere you looked. Keep plodding up we go.

Today we are going from 1800 to 3000m so quite an increase and as we only set off at 12:00 it meant we would get to camp at dusk.

Our first look at the camp and mess tent arrived at dusk.

Great food of Cucumber soup to start then fish and potatoes, veg then fruit. We quickly realised there was a lot more food than all of us could eat as plate after plate of food kept appearing at the tent door and we had to get creative where to put everything on the table. Don’t worry any spare food was given to the porters so nothing got wasted.

The tents we were sleeping in were a good size for 2 people and big bags.

Did not sleep well, many trips to the toilet due to the amount of water I drank during the day. Also the nerves of what tomorrow was to bring kept running through my mind.

Torch in toilet made it funny. First intro to who we were travelling with and their willingness to share. 🤣

Day 2

3000m to 3850m 9km 6hours

Morning of day 2 and the very first glimpse of the mountain.

First view of the top in the morning before breakfast.. very snowy up there. And still looked a loooong way away. However we now had something to focus on.

Smaller trees today but still very damp today however felt a bit less humid as it opened out. Hairy trees and hairy rocks as well as some stripped mice.

A lot more vertical scrambles up rocks today.
Lunch at camp of spaghetti bolognaise and leek soup
Feeling a bit better. Arrived at camp in enough time for a lie down before an acclimatisation hike later.
No hike, too wet. No point getting wet again, we can do that tomorrow.

Camp 2
Made good progress towards the mountain and had brief glimpses of it.

Slight headache which comes and goes but continuing to drink, the effects of altitude were beginning to show.

Whilst having a lie down a porter cleaned my boots which was a very nice surprise.

Happy hour. Which is hot drinks and popcorn
Then dinner. The amount of food we are eating/they are making for us, is mad but need to get energy stocked up before we lose appetite.
Going to try sleeping without my mat tonight as inflatable one I brought takes up room and the one provided is quite comfy and give me a bit more room plus I don’t have to blow it up or unpack it.

Day 3

3850m up 4600m down 3950m. 12km 7hours

Still did not sleep again last night, warm and comfy enough just too much to think about and annoying head ache. Appetite going down.
All mornings start with the health check, before coffee the big breakfast and briefing of what to expect today. Once we are packed the obligatory team photo occurs.

First real altitude today going up to lava tower a height of 4600m. Then dropping back down to camp.
Today was a lot more rocks, some low lying vegetation and rain.
The morning was horrible. Taking a step was hard work, breathing became exhausting and my head was pulsing. Unable to speak just follow the feet in front of me.
Looking around I realised at this point I was the only one suffering as everyone else was chatting away, taking photos and enjoying it.
After trying to eat some snacks I threw up, out of no where as did not feel sick at all. This was the lowest point of my trip as I sat on a rock, I was at this point thinking what the fastest way off the mountain.
The guides looked after really well tried to sort me out. I got given Diamox as Dee in the group had some spare. A double dose of that some ginger and water I felt better.
But we still had more walking up to get to lunch. Nice bit of Queen karaoke picked me up.
Had a short nap at Lava tower in the mess tent – woke up to some nice soup. View was non existent as we were in the clouds and rain.

Fun walk down rivers and cross streams in hail and rain. First time I had enjoyed the walk despite the horrible conditions, but that could have been the drugs or the fact we were going down to some oxygen rich air.

De-icing peoples bags become a fun job for me.

Soggy boots at the end of the day were not fun as no idea if they would ever dry. I was glad I brought talc as putting that in my socks made them feel brand new again. Everyone else had soggy clothes as well and no sign of the rain stopping had people searching for any dry clothes. Luckily my waterproofs had done their job and I was only slightly damp in patches.

The moon was so bright during the night did not need head torch to see – other than odd rocks and guide lines from tents. Actual had a shadow from the moon which was cool and plenty of stars. As you might have guessed I spent a lot of time awake at night to appreciate these things.
However due to the Diamox and complete exhaustion I actually managed to get a reasonable amount of sleep, or certainly more than previous nights.
However I still got out of breath going to the toilet during the night because of the altitude.

Day 4.

3950m to 3930m. 5km 4 hours

Putting on soggy boots in the morning was not pleasant. As we were in a valley there was no chance of sun until later.

The brief for today was to the point. The wall! Up and down all day but a short day.

Got appetite back and managed to eat breakfast but everything still feels like hard work.
There was a section of the climb called the Kissing rock, which you simply hang on step round and keep your face close to the rock. Was not as scary as everyone says and did not realise that was where I was until I was round it and the guide turned back and shouted to the others this is where we were. Everyone made it round some with slightly wobbly legs.
A lot of climbing up, climbing down made me forget about the altitude and what lay ahead as it was a good distraction remembering 3 points of contact at all times.

As we emerged at the top we could see down onto the initial climb and all the colourful bags winding their way up.

Felt good.

On that evening I probably ate the most on the whole trip, I found fruit, veg and soup were the easiest thing to eat and I was beginning to tackle a few carbs as well.

The campsite was at a stunning location with the peak visible in one direction and the flat tops of clouds in the other.

Had the usual disturbed sleep, including the side effect of Diamox of tingling and numb hands and feet which was very strange but was still enjoying the camping.

Day 5.

3930m to 4600m…

Started ok. Ate breakfast drank lots not a long days walk planned so should be quite relaxing.

We could see the next camp from quite early on as the rain had cleared

The view looking back on where we had come from. Quite a barren landscape considering a few days ago we were in lush rain forest.

Things went downhill as we went uphill.
Headache, exhaustion and chest pains were making a come back. Also the pace of my walking slowed and my focus was reduced to one step at a time. Again none of the others seemed to be affected and were singing along enjoying the sunshine.

That magical 4600m mark came back to kick me.
With stats of 80% blood oxygen and resting heart rate of 110, headache and chest pains as well as no energy to was time for me to go.
As the others headed left and upwards to base camp I headed right and back down.

The last photo of team hippo all together on the mountain

Walking evac off the mountain from base camp at 4600m to Mweka gate at 1800m. Hiked all the way down to bottom through 2 other campsite. Long way, approx. 20km, through all scenery, which we had spent days coming up, but did not really care as headache was so bad I just wanted to go.

Glad I did not have to go on these,

takes 6 people to bounce this down the mountain and is the fastest way down if no helicopter is available.
We did hear 6 helicopter rescues fly over as we descended and I was glad I was still fit enough to walk myself off.

My thoughts down bounced between wondering what the hospital was going to be like, would I need my lungs/head drained or spend a night there on oxygen. To realising I moved my passport and money into my other bag the porters carry, in an attempt to make my day bag lighter, however this bag was now at the top of the mountain!

Kept up with Porters on the way down, we were really going for it. However as I was layered up for a slow walk at zero degrees I got quite warm, as the temp hit 20°+ with a 97% humidity

Really well looked after by my guide who carried bag for me and found food at a random camp, I think I had someone else’s pack lunch. He even managed to organised transport to collect us at the bottom.

Did see some monkeys in the rainforest as we were the only 2 people making the decent during the afternoon it was nice and quiet, most people would go down in the morning from the lower camps.

Lift to hospital. Got to health clinic and was straight through to see a Doc in minutes, assessed and pills given. Also heard the funniest comment from the doc as he checked me over “I see you are fresh from mountain” at this point I realised I was slightly sweaty from the massive hike down, boots covered in mud and still wearing clothes I had lived in for 5 days.

Very efficient. Given steroids. Back to hotel, which was only yards from the hospital.
Hotel found me a bed and my bag, then found a nice hot shower which felt so good after the long hike down, followed by a good meal of curry rice and bread, my appetite was back. Then a comfy bed 🛏

Day 6
Woke to call to prays at 5am in hotel.

Such a comfy bed – slept for 9 hours straight. Would have slept for more but had to meet the manager for a debrief and also breakfast was being served. 🤤

Leisurely Breakfast (with no health questions) and spoke to Kandoo boss who checked on me and told me to rest another night.
Not a lot to do other than look at pictures of the trip, drink ginger tea and rest.

Day 7.

Usual 5am wake up to singing by the choir.
Shower and Breakfast. I was feeling almost clean and back to normal now.

Back to the mountain to pick up my fellow walking team and buy them all a beer.
The trip back to mountain was a nice drive as I was now well rested I could appreciate the coffee plantations and local tribes which lived on the mountain and made use of the wet and hot weather.

It was also nice to see how the kit, porters and transport is organised. Watching all the various companies pack up and collect everything was fascinating.

Then team hippo began emerging down the path to the finish line. Of course I furnished them all with a refreshing beer.

An afternoon of reminiscing, storytelling and for the others a much needed wash.

It was great to catch back up with everyone. Hear how their summit journey had gone, highlights of the trip. It was great reliving the past week.

Guides were amazing throughout the trip looking after our health but also encouraging and joking with us. Always told us what we needed and answered questions. Also being dressed in bright orange meant you could spot them when needed.

Day 8.
Moved to new hotel. It was in the middle of nowhere along a very very uneven unsurfaced road but the reward at the end was a beautiful villa, private pools, large rooms and great hosts.
Being the only guests at the place meant lounging by the pool and enjoying the sunshine was no problem.

Was a great end to a fantastic trip.

Side notes
Purple palace – the biggest reason to go with Kandoo.
1 wobbly chair in mess tent was always a gamble who got it.
Every day is different. You do not believe it until you wake up and walk it. Even then you cannot believe tomorrow will be so different.

The weather and views can change within minutes. You can hear a shout of “I can see the mountain”, by the time you have left the tent it has gone.
Always carry layers and full water proofs, for the above reason.

Nutella needs warming up each day to make it more manageable than shavings.

How many tickles does it take to make an octopus laugh…. Ten tickles. 🤣

The amount of tasty food the chef produced on the mountain was staggering considering what he had to cook with and where we were.

The camps and infrastructure on the mountain is immense. Building at every campsite to check in and out. New and old toilet huts, although all of them should be avoided. Then on some routes huts for sleeping in. Tents of all sizes and colours stretched out. Each carefully put up and drainage gulley’s scrapped round them to funnel any ground water round. Rocks and pegs were used side by side. Big mess tents and smaller sleeping tents. Then the luxury toilet tents.

Ginger tea is awesome here. So strong and tasty. They also grow it on Zanzibar not sure about in Tanz.

The laughter and stories which were told was one of the best reasons for doing the trip. Finding out about other people, reliving memories and making up stories.

The team
Tim -USA big beard. Always had a song for a situation or a story about a tattoo

Shari -USA – knew her science and ran a bar. Rock climbed which helped the scrambles as she was short. Also had many tattoo and bar stories.

Dee -NZ -pills and potions for everything. Picked up languages very well.

Daz – the dad of the group and actual dad of Ethan. Never used his poles. Joined in every singalong

Ethan – tent torch! Always with a funny story

Ben (little) – showing us up with how much he ate and just kept going

Jak -always a happy chap, never saw him complain or down. First times – Boiled eggs, ginger tea, granola

Emma – Always the chatty bubbly one who enjoyed the morning rendition of “Hooked on a feeling”

Ben (big) – had the unfortunate task of sharing a tent with me. Probably the longest he has been without a drink but enjoyed it all the same.

On reflection, my legs and feet did not fail me I had trained them well enough. My mind and altitude were the things which did not let me succeed. I was not positive enough or believe I could actually make it. This led to less sleep and lower energy. My lungs and head did not respond well to anything near 4600m.
It sounds like I reacted and suffered the same as the team which reached the top only they got hit by altitude at the top or about 5500 meters.

I do not feel disappointed I did not reach the top, I am thankful for the time I got to spend with the team and on the mountain. I am also relieved that my health returned and had no lasting effects.

Well done to all those that make it to the top and all those guides and porters who make it possible.